This listing is for a karinui - an untailored kimono with each panel basted together in the shape of the kimono so that the alignment of the patterning can be seen before sewing. The basting is typically done after the buyer has purchased the bolt of kimono fabric, so perhaps this was made as an example in a showroom display. We do not see these often!
This karinui was meant to be a tomesode-style kimono, which is a very formal kimono typically worn for weddings or other important occasions. The main patterning is across the hem, it is not lined, and the five small white circles are ready for the family crests to be added.
The patterning across the hem includes a flowing curtain filled with dozens of different traditional motifs in bright autumn colors. The design is reminiscent of the low draping that used to separate tatami rooms in palaces long ago. Near the end of the motif is a decorated calligraphy box - for poems that might have been written by the wearer. Lots of florals and pine boughs, embroidered accents in gold leaf and gold embroidery. To learn more about the yuzen technique used to create this design, watch the video below.
Karinui can be used for any textile project - no need to actually make a kimono! The basting stitches can easily be removed to separate the panels, which yields a variety of different-length and width pieces that can be incorporated into gorgeous textile art.
Although the exact yardage length will vary, each disassembled karinui offers approximately 12 yards of silk in nine different pieces:
- 2 sleeve panels, roughly 1yd x 14in each
- 2 bodice panels - roughly 4yd x 14in each - the "main" panels, each with a 4" cut into one side where the collar would be attached
- 2 gusset panels - roughly 1yd x 7.5in each - cut in half lengthwise and would be sewn at the lower front of each bodice panel
- 1 collar panel - roughly 2yd x 7.5in - typically cut in half lengthwise
See the final image of this listing for an outline of the kimono pattern. Note that there are four short lining pieces of silk, with one featuring additional patterning that extends from the front left side. This is an indicator of a higher-value design.
Please note that some of the basting stitches might not be fully intact, so the karinui may need seam reinforcement before being displayed.
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